Just had the pleasure of watching Riding Giants, about big wave surfing.
I'm not a surfer. In fact I have rather a fear of water. Not my element. But this movie and Endless Summer, another surf movie, are two of my absolute favorite documentaries.
There's just something about the immense beauty and power of the waves, and the crazy fearlessness of the surfers.
These guys are genuine article badasses.
Note: When you see Mavericks (pictured above)...the amazing big wave location in Half Moon Bay, CA (of all places!) with all the dangerous rocks...where you have to paddle a half mile out to catch the famous waves—it's about 20 minutes from my house.
Up until Mavericks was discovered, the only big wave surf was considered to be in Hawaii.
In fact, one of the surfers said finding Mavericks off the coast of Northern California, just south of San Francisco, was like finding Mt. Everest sitting behind Mt. McKinley!
Anyway, even if you're not into surfing, these movies are spectacular. Kick back with a cold one and check them out.
Of Traitors and Cucks
2 weeks ago