Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Surf City

Just had the pleasure of watching Riding Giants, about big wave surfing.

I'm not a surfer. In fact I have rather a fear of water. Not my element. But this movie and Endless Summer, another surf movie, are two of my absolute favorite documentaries.

There's just something about the immense beauty and power of the waves, and the crazy fearlessness of the surfers.

These guys are genuine article badasses.

Note: When you see Mavericks (pictured above)...the amazing big wave location in Half Moon Bay, CA (of all places!)  with all the dangerous rocks...where you have to paddle a half mile out to catch the famous waves—it's about 20 minutes from my house.

Up until Mavericks was discovered, the only big wave surf was considered to be in Hawaii.

In fact, one of the surfers said finding Mavericks off the coast of Northern California, just south of San Francisco, was like finding Mt. Everest sitting behind Mt. McKinley!

Anyway, even if you're not into surfing, these movies are spectacular. Kick back with a cold one and check them out.



  1. Heir apparent, of whom you're aware, surfs Half Moon Bay. In the winter. Who'd a thunk it, a kid from Ohio. Only in America.

  2. Saw Endless Summer YEARS ago, I'll have to see it again, and check out The Riding Giants. Thanks for the heads up.

  3. We're kindred spirits! I love those movies too! But I must tell you, there's a surfing documentary I love even more, and perhaps you will, too: Step Into Liquid, a wonderful hodgepodge of everything from crazy Texans surfing the wakes from huge oil supertanker ships for miles on end, to paunchy old Germans and Poles in wetsuits surfing Lake Michigan -- plus Laird Hamilton and the giant-riders, top female surfers, a paraplegic surfer, and a Vietnam vet who returns to North Vietnam and introduces the local kids to the sport. Great fun -- and the cinematography is over-the-top gorgeous. Treat yourself! http://www.amazon.com/Step-into-Liquid-Laird-Hamilton/dp/B0001FGBUC

  4. Jon, you talking Mavericks? That's wicked dangerous, man. I hope it's just the regular HMB beaches...fun, but not insane.

    Seagypsy..my pleasure. Hope you enjoy them!

    Heartlander, Laird is featured in Riding Giants, too. I guess he's considered the best big waver rider in the history of the world. Not bad for the picked-on haole kid from Hawaii, eh? Thanks for the recommendation, I will definitely check it out.

    1. In "Step Into Liquid," they show this really cool new type of surfboard Laird engineered specifically for tackling the monsters.